The Temple of the Tooth -The Dalada Maligawa

The Island - 8th February 1998


by A. C. B. Pethiyagoda - Colombo

Long after their tears have dried, the Buddhists of this country, particularly those of Senkadagalapura, will continue to grieve for years to come over the destruction and desecration of the abode of the Dalada Vahanse by terrorist vandals on 25th January this year.

The damage done to the serene Natha Devale and the magnificent St. Paul's Cathedral adds to the nation's grief.

History of the Maligawa

The Sacred Tooth Relic was brought to Kandy from Delgamuwa in Sabaragamuwa by King Vimaladharmasuriya 1 [1592-1603], who housed it in the Dalada Ge . This fell into neglect and so King Vimaladharmasuriya II built the Dalada Maligawa [Palace of the Sacred Tooth Relic ] which , with minor renovations and alterations carried out from time to time, stood intact upto 25th January this year, universally venerated.

The Pattirippuwa or Octagon however, was built by Sri Vickrema Rajasinghe [1798-1815], the last king of Kandy, as a pavilion for watching sports and other public functions in the Maha Maluwa [Palace Squire], while affording an excellent view of the Queen's bathing pavilion or Ulpange , by the lake. The Octagon was therefore not a part of the Dalada Maligawa to begin with.

The Pattirippuwa is perhaps one of the most photographed, sketched and painted buildings in Kandy, or for that matter in all of Sri Lanka, as its beauty in line and proportion is unmatched. It is said to have been designed and built by Devendra Mulachari, a local architect and builder. It was, until the bomb blast, the repository of many hundreds of valuable ola manuscripts and books belonging to the Oriental Library.

Sections of the historic building

To the right of the Octagon is a shrine room, a part of the original Maligawa, which houses among other statues a crystal seated-Buddha statue, the pristine exquisiteness of which is greatly enhanced when a lighted candle is placed behind it.

Below the Pattirippuwa and running along the entire front of the temple is the Diya Agala [moat] over which is the Maha Wahalkada or main entrance to the Maligawa, now shattered. On the outer side of the moat is a wall composed of a series of scallops resembling waves on the surface of water and is therefore known as the Diyarali Bamma . Recent imitations of this in other parts of the country are, to say the least , no comparison to it in symmetry and style. The steps leading to the main entrance are of solid rock, and flanked on either side by two elephants carved in stone and preceded by a Sandakada Pahana or Moonstone which is now shattered like so much else.

Some students of temple art and sculpture are of the view that during the period of the Kandyan Kingdom artistic standards had declined from their excellence during the Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa periods. Hence this particular moonstone with its elongated ends was considered a poor imitation of the masterpieces of the classical period in our history.

The top of the main entrance to the building itself is decorated with an intricate Makara Thorana with carved figures of two guards known as Doratupalas on each side. The doorway leads to a tunnel-like vestibule known as the Ambarawa which opens out to the Hevisi Mandappaya where the traditional drumming is performed before each pooja.

Until a few years ago, on the left of the Ambarawa was a raised circular stone receptacle for water with a central fountain from which a jet of water was thrown out. The fountain was crowned with brass figures of three women and children standing back to back. The water was for worshippers to wash their hands and feet before entering the temple and for sprinkling on flowers brought for offering. This fountain was, quite correctly, relocated to an outside spot and the Mandappaya stayed dry and clean. To the right of the Ambarawa is the Dolosmahapahana; and octagonal wooden structure with glass panes on the upper portion containing an oil lamp which burns continuously, funnel-fed by devotees. Was the flame of the pahana extinguished by the bomb blast?

Situated in front of the Hevisi Mandappaya is a two storeyed structure with a Palle Male (lower Chamber) and Uda Male (Upper Chamber) built by King Sri Viraparakrama Narendrasinghe (1707-1739). The lower chamber consists of two rooms, Dikge (Long Room) and the Maha Aramudala (Great Teasure Room). The upper chamber, served by two broad stairways from the Hevisi Mandappaya consists of three main areas: the first called the Pirith Mandappe or Recitation Hall, the second Handum Kunama or Perfumed Chamber and the third, the Athul Maligawa or Vedasitina Maligawa wherein the Sacred Tooth Relic is placed. Seven gold caskets cover the Relic, only the outer one of which is seen, richly adorned with jewellery gifted by ancient kings and queens and in more recent times by devotees who have been so moved as to offer their valuables on seeing the Sacred Relic during periodic expositions. The expositions, when open to the public, are held in a cubicle richly decorated with Rali Paalam in traditional Kandyan style in the Pirith Mandappe.

The walls and ceiling of the Handun Kunama and Vedasitina Maligawa are gorgeously decorated with paintings and carvings in silver and ivory with the ivory bent to the required shapes without damage to it, all by some process which is now lost to us. The brass step at the doorway to the Relic Chamber is never trod on. If one is fortunate enough to be allowed to offer flowers at the exquisitely carved table in the Vedasitina Maligawa itself, one never kneels to pray but must step outside to do so. Above the table on which offerings are made hangs an inverted golden lotus studded with precious stones.

The two storeyed building housing the Sacred Relic has on either side of it two buildings on raised platforms, both separated from the central building by two Haras Midulas or inner square courtyards. The building on the right is used as an office by the principal lay custodian of the Maligawa, the Diyawadna Nilame. The ground floor of the building on the left is for the use of the Kariya Karawana Rala or chief caretaker while the upper floor is set apart for the exclusive use of the priests of the Malwatte and Asgiriya temples who officiate in turn at the Maligawa.

The three-storeyed Aluth Maligawa or New Temple is of very recent origin when compared to the main Maligawa and houses a museum of various items of ancient and recent origin which belong to the Maligawa; several of which are reported to have been damaged by the blast.

Rich with sacred sites

Kanda Uda Pasrata, the five outlying districts of the ancient Senkadagalapura or Kandy of today, are richly endowed with numerous Devales and Viharas built by the twelve kings of Kandy who ruled between 1469 and 1815. The Dalada Maligawa complex is undoubtedly the most lustrous gem of them all.

The enormity of the damage done to this national treasure of immeasurable value became clearer as each day passed since the fateful Sunday. Foolhardy men pronounced the damage could be repaired in a few days but the more knowledgeable say it will take a couple of years to do so. Even then the restoration of a 400 years old building with ancient wall paintings such as at the Maligawa can never be carried out to anywhere near perfection, nor the desecration obliterated.

Why this horrendous tragedy?

It has been surmised that this tragedy is the result of the "sad lack of moral and spiritual values, especially among our leaders". If we take our minds back to the tragedies of Arantalawa and the shooting at the Sri Maha Bodhi; and economic damage resulting from the bombing of the Central Bank, Orugodawatta oil installation, and World Trade Centre over the past few years, we have reason to place the blame squarely on some of the politicians of the last two

or three decades. Self interest has motivated their potitical advancement and insatiable thirst for power and riches.

Hence on 25th January 1999 and beyond, we should observe this day as one of mourning and contemplation on man's lust for power and man's disregard for the greatness of past achievements. The sad and pathetic situation we have sunk to in practically every sphere of life since 1948 has been driven home to us by the blasting of the terrorist bomb in the precincts of the Maligawa. Let us remember this fact and attempt to atone, and improve the situation of our country as we reflect each 25th January on the carnage of the date in 1998.

Impossible celebration

There is no reason to celebrate independence in the future until the quality of life of the vast majority of our people improves. It has sunk to depths from which there appears no hope of rising. The quality of the politicians too must improve so that a trickle down effect brings improvement to even the poorest of the poor. There is so much that can be done with the millions squandered on independence and other celebrations. Let our politicians aim at achieving independence for all Sri Lankans from poverty, fear, and dependence on their whims and fancies.

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