{"id":95517,"date":"2019-11-22T15:59:45","date_gmt":"2019-11-22T22:59:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.lankaweb.com\/news\/items\/?p=95517"},"modified":"2019-11-22T15:59:45","modified_gmt":"2019-11-22T22:59:45","slug":"sri-lanka-needs-you-and-you-need-sri-lanka-seven-months-after-tragedy-struck-this-beguiling-island-is-back-in-business-with-plenty-of-deals-and-youll-practically-have-it-to-yourself","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.lankaweb.com\/news\/items\/2019\/11\/22\/sri-lanka-needs-you-and-you-need-sri-lanka-seven-months-after-tragedy-struck-this-beguiling-island-is-back-in-business-with-plenty-of-deals-and-youll-practically-have-it-to-yourself\/","title":{"rendered":"Sri Lanka needs you&#8230; and YOU need Sri Lanka: Seven months after tragedy struck, this beguiling island is back in business, with plenty of deals &#8211; and you&#8217;ll practically have it to yourself"},"content":{"rendered":"<h2><span style=\"color: #0000ff;\"><em>By\u00a0<a style=\"color: #0000ff;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dailymail.co.uk\/home\/search.html?s=&amp;authornamef=Thomas+W.+Hodgkinson+For+The+Daily+Mail\">THOMAS W. HODGKINSON FOR THE DAILY MAIL<\/a><\/em><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li><strong>Sri Lanka\u2019s visitor numbers have plummeted since April due to series of terror attacks on hotels and churches&nbsp;<\/strong><\/li><li><strong>The tenth of the population of the country that relies on tourism has suffered its worst year in memory<\/strong><\/li><li><strong>Seven months on from the attacks, the Foreign &amp; Commonwealth Office has lifted its ban on casual visits&nbsp;<\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>The ancient city of Polonnaruwa in central Sri Lanka is a shining place of palaces and shrines. I particularly admire the superb inscription left by one haughty ruler, informing an envious rival that he is like a jackal wanting to be a lion, a worm, a cobra, a sheep, a horse, a firefly, the sun. That\u2019s one heck of a putdown.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>These royal ruins \u2014 a UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back to the tenth century \u2014 are sprawling, staggering and world-class. Yet they are almost deserted.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It\u2019s the same story all over the country. Gleaming hotels, empty. Glittering beaches, abandoned. Gripping museums, echoing with the absence of visitors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i.dailymail.co.uk\/1s\/2019\/11\/22\/19\/21350564-7715923-image-a-125_1574449984116.jpg\" alt=\"Exotic charm: One of Sri Lanka's many beaches.\u00a0Sri Lanka\u2019s visitor numbers plummeted because on April 21, Islamist suicide bombers with links to ISIS walked into three hotels and three Catholic churches and detonated devices, killing 259 people\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Exotic charm: One of Sri Lanka&#8217;s many beaches.&nbsp;Sri Lanka\u2019s visitor numbers plummeted because on April 21, Islamist suicide bombers with links to ISIS walked into three hotels and three Catholic churches and detonated devices, killing 259 people<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Why? Because on April 21, Islamist suicide bombers with links to ISIS walked into three hotels and three Catholic churches and detonated devices, killing 259 people and injuring another 500.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sri Lanka\u2019s visitor numbers plummeted, and the tenth of the population that relies on tourism has suffered its worst year in memory.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I speak to Wasantha, 42, a soft-voiced souvenir vendor at Polonnaruwa who, from boyhood, has sold his cobra flutes and palm-leaf hats to visitors. Recently he took out a loan to buy a small guesthouse, but since April he has had to default on repayments. His message to foreigners is simple: \u2018Our country needs you.\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The sad-eyed owner of an excellent nearby restaurant, Lasantha, 48, has pawned his wife\u2019s jewellery to pay his staff to wait on empty tables.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It\u2019s not surprising the bombings have affected tourism. But we\u2019re now seven months on and the Foreign &amp; Commonwealth Office has lifted its ban on casual visits. So where is everybody?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>They\u2019ll be back. But for the time being, you can enjoy everything this wonderful island in the Indian Ocean has to offer \u2014 and you can have most of it to yourself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>When I go snorkelling on the coral reefs off Trincomalee in the east, I\u2019m the only client in the 20-seat motorboat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u2018There are many sharks here,\u2019 says the boatman, Kaleel, as I wrestle with my flippers. \u2018Would you like to see them?\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i.dailymail.co.uk\/1s\/2019\/11\/22\/19\/21350612-7715923-image-a-128_1574450068395.jpg\" alt=\"Stilt fishermen off the south coast of Sri Lanka. The tenth of the population that relies on tourism has suffered its worst year in memory\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Stilt fishermen off the south coast of Sri Lanka. The tenth of the population that relies on tourism has suffered its worst year in memory<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sure, the blacktip reef sharks I swim with are small, about 4ft long. But their silhouettes look pretty disturbing as they pass by, grey and ghostlike.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Again, I\u2019m almost alone when I reach the rock temple at Gal Vihara, and gaze on the four mighty statues of the Buddha. They\u2019re among the most beautiful things I\u2019ve ever seen, particularly the last of them, lying down, eyes closed, his hand seeming to cup his ear.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u2018Not sleeping,\u2019 the elderly attendant with the pencil moustache tells me. \u2018Nirvana.\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I try a joke (\u2018He\u2019s listening to Nirvana?\u2019), but the old boy doesn\u2019t seem to hear. By now my mood is as calm as a bodhisattva and I let it go.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Of course, I know my inner peace, born of blissful near-solitude, is at the cost of pain for millions of Sri Lankans.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u2018In July and August, we had 350 tours booked,\u2019 says my driver guide, Harold. \u2018All of them were cancelled. English market, German market, Dutch market. All.\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i.dailymail.co.uk\/1s\/2019\/11\/22\/19\/21350924-7715923-image-a-137_1574450487871.jpg\" alt=\"Negombo, which is\u00a0renowned for its golden sand and safe swimming. There are also a pageant of colourful boats\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Negombo, which is&nbsp;renowned for its golden sand and safe swimming. There are also a pageant of colourful boats&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The charming Harold, 51, who is married with three sons to support, has had to accept help from his boss to pay his rent. His wife has gone to work, in a factory, for the first time since they married. \u2018My oldest son is working,\u2019 he says, \u2018but he earns a very small salary. So four people depend on me.\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>While we drive towards Jaffna, Harold\u2019s mobile rings with good news: his middle son, 20-year-old Jeewantha, has been offered a job as a trainee pastry chef at the Shangri-La Hotel in Colombo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But isn\u2019t that one of the hotels that was blown up in April? \u2018Yes.\u2019 And isn\u2019t he worried about the boy\u2019s safety? He isn\u2019t, and he explains why.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sri Lanka is a mainly Buddhist nation, ethnically Sinhalese. Historically, the strife \u2014 most notably in the civil war that blighted the country from 1983 to 2009 \u2014 has always been between this majority and the Tamil minority in the north, most of whom are Hindu. There are also Muslim and Christian minorities, but, broadly speaking, these are a peaceful presence in the country, neither hating nor hated.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i.dailymail.co.uk\/1s\/2019\/11\/22\/19\/21350878-7715923-image-a-135_1574450460671.jpg\" alt=\"High season starts in Sri Lanka starts in November, so it\u2019s not too late to book some winter sun. Pictured is\u00a0Kali Kovil Trincomalee, a Hindu temple dedicated to the goddess Bhadrakali\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>High season starts in Sri Lanka starts in November, so it\u2019s not too late to book some winter sun. Pictured is&nbsp;Kali Kovil Trincomalee, a Hindu temple dedicated to the goddess Bhadrakali<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">TRAVEL FACTS&nbsp;<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Thomas travelled with Rickshaw Travel on its 14\u2011night Sri Lanka Uncovered itinerary, from \u00a32,398 pp (excluding flights) and includes accommodation, breakfast, transport with private driver and excursions (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/rickshawtravel.co.uk\/\">rickshawtravel.co.uk<\/a>, 01273 322398).&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To stay at Wasantha\u2019s Monkey Garden guesthouse near Polonnaruwa, call +94 71 335 0823.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To book a table at Lasantha\u2019s restaurant at Giritale, email hotelwaana@gmail.com or call +94 76 931 8308. To book a snorkelling trip with Kaleel, email nawfeer2005@gmail.com.&nbsp;<a><\/a><a><\/a><a><\/a><a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Even during the war, bombs were aimed at government buildings, never at Christian churches, let alone hotels. The point is, there is no pattern of targeting tourist areas. \u2018The attacks that happened this April were a one-off,\u2019 says Harold<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It\u2019s confirmed wherever I go: in 2019, things have been tougher for tourism even than during the civil war.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u2018It\u2019s the worst period in 40 years,\u2019 says Prasath, 58, the boatman who takes me on a tour of the lagoon at Negombo. This is one of the places that was bombed, but the pageant of brightly coloured fishing boats makes it easy to forget.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It\u2019s my first morning, yet in a couple of hours on the uncrowded water I see enough to justify my entire trip: idle iguanas, macaque monkeys busy among the mangroves, fat fruit bats hanging like black lanterns from the taller trees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>On my last morning, I stop in at the Shangri-La Hotel for a cup of coffee. Since it was hit in April, the place has been restored to its former pristine condition: you wouldn\u2019t know anything had happened here. A slim and smiley boy, the hotel\u2019s newest pastry chef, asks me to write that Sri Lanka is \u2018the best country in the world to travel to\u2019.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I\u2019m happy to say so. What\u2019s more, new developments set to open in 2020 include the Pekoe House hotel in Kandy and a new Alila hotel at Koggala in the south.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>High season starts in November, so it\u2019s not too late to book some winter sun. And you really should. This country needs you.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Sri Lanka: Where to go&#8230; and the best places to stay<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>THE SOUTH: Galle, the coast and Yala<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i.dailymail.co.uk\/1s\/2019\/11\/22\/19\/21351146-7715923-image-a-147_1574450901413.jpg\" alt=\"The city of Galle in the south of Sri Lanka. It is a charming Dutch colonial city with 16-century stone ramparts and an imposing clock tower in the old quarter\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>The city of Galle in the south of Sri Lanka. It is a charming Dutch colonial city with 16-century stone ramparts and an imposing clock tower in the old quarter<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The gateway to the south is Galle, a charming Dutch colonial city with 16-century stone ramparts and an imposing clock tower in the old quarter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Beyond Galle are beautiful beaches: Weligama, Mirissa, Unawatuna and Tangalle \u2014 though some shelve into deep water and have strong currents, which make swimming dangerous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Along this stretch are many of the island\u2019s emblematic stilt fishermen, who perch on tall wooden poles. Inland are villages and rice paddies dotted with toffee-coloured cattle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Wildlife \u2014 be it leopard, elephant or exotic birds \u2014 is prolific in the Yala and Bundala national parks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Cultural highlight<\/strong>: The pilgrimage town of Kataragama, one of Sri Lanka\u2019s most important religious sites with colourful nightly ceremonies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Where to stay<\/strong>:&nbsp;Amangalla, Galle\u2019s colonial grande dame, has 31 rooms and suites, a pool, Ayurvedic spa, two restaurants, library and mature gardens that date to the 1860s. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a3424 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/aman.com\/resorts\/amangalla\">aman.com\/resorts\/amangalla<\/a>).&nbsp;Fort Bazaar has 18 Moorish-inspired rooms and suites, a spa and a brassiere. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a3212 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/teardrop-hotels.com\/fort-bazaar\">teardrop-hotels.com\/fort-bazaar<\/a>).&nbsp;The Bungalow has six stylish rooms and a charming restaurant in a 17th-century building; B&amp;B doubles from \u00a358 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/thebungalowgalle.com\/\">thebungalowgalle.com<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>On or near the beach<\/strong>:&nbsp;KK Beach is a boutique hotel with ten rooms and suites, an infinity pool and ocean-facing restaurant. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a3193 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/kkbeach.com\/\">kkbeach.com<\/a>).&nbsp;&nbsp;Overlooking the Indian Ocean and in 21 acres of gardens, Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle has 152 rooms and pool villas, three restaurants, an Ayurvedic spa and 25-metre pool. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a3177 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/anantara.com\/en\/peace-haven-tangalle\">anantara.com\/en\/peace-haven-tangalle<\/a>).&nbsp;&nbsp;Peacock Villa \u2014 a family-run, four-room guesthouse set in a private garden \u2014 is a five-minute walk from Mirissa beach. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a350 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/peacockvilla.lk\/\">peacockvilla.lk<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Near Yala National Park:<\/strong>&nbsp;Bordering Yala National Park, Chena Huts by the Indian Ocean has 14 thatched cabins with ensuite bathrooms and plunge pools. All-inclusive doubles from \u00a3640 with daily safaris (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/ugaescapes.com\/chenahuts\">ugaescapes.com\/chenahuts<\/a>).&nbsp;Located on the beach, a few miles from Yala National Park, Jetwing Yala has 80 contemporary rooms spread across 38 acres, a 75-metre outdoor pool, two restaurants and a spa. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a3116 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/jetwinghotels.com\/jetwingyala\">jetwinghotels.com\/jetwingyala<\/a>).&nbsp;&nbsp;Close to the entrance of Yala National Park is Eco Island Sri Lanka, a campsite with eight tents with mosquito nets and private bathrooms. B&amp;B tents from \u00a361 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/ecoislandsrilanka.com\/\">ecoislandsrilanka.com<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>THE WEST COAST<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i.dailymail.co.uk\/1s\/2019\/11\/22\/19\/21350730-7715923-image-a-132_1574450233172.jpg\" alt=\"A green sea turtle on Hikkaduwa's coral reef. Resorts such as Hikkaduwa and Negombo are popular with beach goers\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>A green sea turtle on Hikkaduwa&#8217;s coral reef. Resorts such as Hikkaduwa and Negombo are popular with beach goers&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>When visitors touch down at Sri Lanka\u2019s international airport, many bypass the urban sprawl of Colombo, Sri Lanka\u2019s capital, and head to the west coast beaches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Resorts such as Beruwala, the stylish Bentota and old hippy haunt Hikkaduwa to the south and Negombo (five miles north of the airport) are renowned for their golden sand and safe swimming.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Further north lies Kalpitiya, a top spot for kitesurfing and dolphin and whale-watching.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nearby Wilpattu National Park \u2014 home to leopards, elephants, monkeys, Coromandel sacred langurs and sloth bears \u2014 is Sri Lanka\u2019s largest national park.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Cultural highlight<\/strong>: The Gangaramaya and Seema Malaka Buddhist temples in Colombo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Where to stay<\/strong>:&nbsp;&nbsp;Wattura Resort and Spa, between the Gin Oya River and the Waikkal Beach, has 27 villas and suites, a pool and spa. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a3232 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/watturaresortandspa.com\/\">watturaresortandspa.com<\/a>).&nbsp;&nbsp;The Scape is a contemporary hotel, a ten-minute walk from Negombo town, with 32 rooms, a beachfront pool and two restaurants. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a3116 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/pledgescape.com\/\">pledgescape.com<\/a>).&nbsp;&nbsp;Avani Bentota Resort has 75 ocean-view rooms, two restaurants, two freshwater pools and watersports. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a3134 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/avanihotels.com\/en\/bentota\">avanihotels.com\/en\/bentota<\/a>).&nbsp;&nbsp;Centara Ceysands Resort and Spa, on the Bentota peninsula, has a pool, spa, kids club and three restaurants. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a376 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/centarahotelresorts.com\/\">centarahotelresorts.com<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>CENTRAL: Kandy and the Hill Country<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i.dailymail.co.uk\/1s\/2019\/11\/22\/19\/21350740-7715923-image-a-134_1574450267141.jpg\" alt=\"Tea pickers in the central province. The cultural highlight here is The Temple of the Tooth, which is the hub of the central highlands\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Tea pickers in the central province. The cultural highlight here is The Temple of the Tooth, which is the hub of the central highlands<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kandy, the cultural capital of the Sinhalese and home to its most important Buddhist shrine, the Temple of the Tooth, is the hub of the central highlands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To the south is the Hill Country with regimented rows of tea plants, and the charming British colonial town of Nuwara Eliya.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>East of Kandy is the dense forest of the rugged Knuckles mountain range. To the west is the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Cultural highlight<\/strong>: The Temple of the Tooth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Where to stay<\/strong>:&nbsp;Originally a 1926 colonial planter\u2019s bungalow, the Rosyth Estate House is set in a 62-acre private tea and rubber estate, with eight rooms, a huge Rock Villa comprised of two suites, a pool, spa and yoga sala. Half-board doubles from \u00a3197 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/rosyth.lk\/\">rosyth.lk<\/a>).&nbsp;&nbsp;Vista House is a simple villa with three bedrooms, four bathrooms, a guest pantry and a private garden. Doubles from \u00a327 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/vista-house-lk.book.direct\/\">vista-house-lk.book.direct<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>CENTRAL: The Cultural Triangle<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i.dailymail.co.uk\/1s\/2019\/11\/22\/19\/21351144-7715923-image-a-148_1574450913632.jpg\" alt=\"Five of Sri Lanka\u2019s eight World Heritage Sites are in the Cultural Triangle. Pictured is\u00a0Sigiriya on Lion\u2019s Rock\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Five of Sri Lanka\u2019s eight World Heritage Sites are in the Cultural Triangle. Pictured is&nbsp;Sigiriya on Lion\u2019s Rock<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Five of Sri Lanka\u2019s eight World Heritage Sites are in the Cultural Triangle, which is defined by the cities of Anuradhapura to the north, Polonnaruwa to the east and Kandy to the south-west.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The 5th-century fortress of Sigiriya is a challenging 1,200 steps to the top. Ten miles north-west are the Dambulla caves decorated with colourful murals of Buddhist and Hindu deities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Cultural highlight<\/strong>: Sigiriya on Lion\u2019s Rock.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Where to stay<\/strong>:&nbsp;Set on a ridge above a teak forest, Elephant Stables Dambulla has six villas (each sleeping up to four people) and a pool. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a3147 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/elephantstablesdambulla.com\/\">elephantstablesdambulla.com<\/a>).&nbsp;Lak Nilla Guest House, a ten-minute drive from Polonnaruwa, has four simple rooms with ensuite bathrooms. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a325 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/booking.com\/\">booking.com<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>THE EAST COAST<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i.dailymail.co.uk\/1s\/2019\/11\/22\/19\/21350720-7715923-image-a-129_1574450203541.jpg\" alt=\"Passekudah, Kalkudah and Arugam Bay, pictured, are excellent for surfing and other watersports\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Passekudah, Kalkudah and Arugam Bay, pictured, are excellent for surfing and other watersports<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Its cities, Trincomalee and Batticaloa, are charming colonial outposts ringed by deep-sea harbours and labyrinthine lagoons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At Trincomalee, visit historic Koneswaram Kovil, one of the island\u2019s holiest Shaivite temples.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The beachside villages of Uppuveli and Nilaveli are diving and snorkelling hotspots, while Passekudah, Kalkudah and Arugam Bay are excellent for surfing and other watersports.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Cultural highlight<\/strong>: Koneswaram Kovil (temple).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Where to stay:&nbsp;The only hotel on Kalkudah beach, Karpaha Sands, has 17 tented suites, an infinity pool and a restaurant. Doubles from \u00a3166 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/karpahasands.com\/\">karpahasands.com<\/a>).&nbsp;&nbsp;Hideaway is a rustic retreat with 14 rooms in tropical gardens, a restaurant and yoga lessons. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a356 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/hideawayarugambay.com\/\">hideawayarugambay.com<\/a>).&nbsp;A short walk from Uppuveli beach, Anantamaa Hotel has 28 rooms, two pools, a spa and restaurant. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a354 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/anantamaa.com\/\">anantamaa.com<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>THE NORTH<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i.dailymail.co.uk\/1s\/2019\/11\/22\/19\/21351142-7715923-image-a-150_1574450921011.jpg\" alt=\"Jaffna is a charming city with a discernible Indian influence and vibrant Tamil culture. Pictured is the\u00a0Vallipuram Alvar temple\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Jaffna is a charming city with a discernible Indian influence and vibrant Tamil culture. Pictured is the&nbsp;Vallipuram Alvar temple<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This region \u2014 considered Sri Lanka\u2019s final frontier \u2014 is now accessible by rail.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Jaffna is a charming city with a discernible Indian influence and vibrant Tamil culture, despite the Dutch architecture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Connected to the mainland by a mile-long bridge is Mannar Island where donkeys roam freely under Baobab trees, and the white beach stretches for miles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Cultural highlight<\/strong>: Nallur Kandaswamy Temple in Jaffna.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Where to stay<\/strong>: The 44-room Jetwing Jaffna has a pool and restaurant. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a3100 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/jetwinghotels.com\/\">jetwinghotels.com<\/a>). Fifteen minutes from Jaffna, Dayanithi, a simple family-run guesthouse, has five rooms. B&amp;B doubles from \u00a315 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/dayanithi.lk\/\">dayanithi.lk<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>. . . And to get there<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Heathrow-Colombo returns from \u00a3903 (<a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/srilankan.com\/\">srilankan.com<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>By Gerri Gallagher&nbsp;<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By\u00a0THOMAS W. HODGKINSON FOR THE DAILY MAIL Sri Lanka\u2019s visitor numbers have plummeted since April due to series of terror attacks on hotels and churches&nbsp; The tenth of the population of the country that relies on tourism has suffered its worst year in memory Seven months on from the attacks, the Foreign &amp; Commonwealth Office [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-95517","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-business"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lankaweb.com\/news\/items\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/95517","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lankaweb.com\/news\/items\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lankaweb.com\/news\/items\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lankaweb.com\/news\/items\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lankaweb.com\/news\/items\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=95517"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.lankaweb.com\/news\/items\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/95517\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lankaweb.com\/news\/items\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=95517"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lankaweb.com\/news\/items\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=95517"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lankaweb.com\/news\/items\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=95517"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}