KAMALIKA PIERIS
REVISED 21.6.20
Medhananda has shown, through his explorations
and his writings, that the Eastern Province had a vibrant Buddhist civilization
in the ancient and medieval period. He
has also shown that it had special features, such as hillside monastic
complexes and a series of ‘Muhudu Maha vihara’.
Monastic
complexes
Medhananda found evidence of huge monastic complexes
in the Eastern province. He was one of the first, if not the first, to draw
attention to the magnificent monastic complex at Rajagala. Medhananda has gone
there and done a thorough exploration. No formal examination of Rajagala had
been done, at the time, said Medhananda.
The Rajagala monastery was known as
Girikibalavi Tisa Mahavihare. The Rajagala hill range, also known as Rassehela kanda, is
1030 feet above sea level. Both north and south slopes have many ruins. All
over the hills there are ruins of stupa. There is a hermitage to the north. Many
stone pillars of various heights and sizes, circular, rectangular, octagonal
are seen scattered. Stone ponds, one
had a sluice. Medhananda noted its
special features such as the two water spouts to fill large stone cisterns.There were decorated urinal stones.
There were over hundred caves. Brick and stone walls created separate rooms
inside the caves. One cave had a bed and pillow cut out of rock. Cave walls
were plastered and painted, paintings have faded. One cave has a roof carved in
shape of an umbrella and handle of the umbrella is done in most exquisite
fashion, said Medhananda .
Rajagala yielded 70 cave
inscription, 20 slab inscription and rock inscriptions. One huge inscription said
that the ashes of Mahinda and Ittiya are enshrined there. Another
inscription spoke of Saddhatissa and Lanjatissa. (This is not king Lanjatissa) Inscriptions
spoke of donations of tanks, caves, fields. Inscription also made reference to statues,
taxes and coins. One inscription refers to tilling the land with a golden plough. One Inscription has been
tampered with, concluded Medhananda.
Medhananda drew attention to the monastic
complex at Bambaragastalawa in Kumana. This monastery extends to over 450 acres. There was no road access and Medhananda had to
go through dense forest which held wild animals. His route was Panama, Salawa
Eliya, Okanda, Tunmulle, Yoda lipa, Manhasara, Sala eliya, Kudumbigala to
Bambaragastalawa.
At
Bambaragastalawa he found over
ten stupa, on hill tops and flat ground. He found rock cut
steps, Buddha statues, asanaghara,
pillars, caves, viharas, image houses, chaitya and very
old bricks. There was a stone seat, 15’
by 5’9”, beautifully carved at the edges. This may be an asanaghara, said Medhananda.
He also saw a
stupa 50 ft wide and 23 ft high. He
found a rectangular arrangement of six rows of six
columns each.
There is a huge pilima lena surrounded by
smaller lena, said Medhananda.
In it there was a reclining
Buddha image, 36 feet in length, built with brick, mud and lime plaster,
vandalized by treasure hunters. There is a drip ledge all round the cave. Brick
walls were built dividing the cave into many rooms, with the top decorated with
swan sculptures. The bricks used were excellently burned ones. There was a vestibule 16 by 48 ft in front of
cave. It had ten square holes for wooden beams. There was a stone pillar in
front, and stone steps indicating two entrances, a wooden door frame and a wooden pillar, of milla wood, concluded Medhananda.
Medhananda
had also explored Sembumale monastery, in
Kuchchaveli, which covered over hundred
acres. He visited the monastic complex
at Mahapattuwa
in Veheragoda area. This has not been explored by the Department of Archaeology
and
there
is no official record of it.
Medhananda went
to Bovattegala from Panama, past Kumana
villu, through forest, then north east
along a footpath to Bovattegala . There is another route, on Kumbukkan oya, to
Mahagal amuna, to Kumana wewa bund to Bovattegala, observed Medhananda . Bovattegala
showed ruins of a monastery, said Medhananda .
Medhananda drew attention to Omunugala
Cave
Monastery ( ‘len vihara’ ) at Ampara. The meditation caves at Omunugala extended from the foot of the mountain to a
level little below the summit. They were very
impressive. Every cave had its drip ledge inscription , Most caves had remains of walls. There
are ancient paintings in one cave. One
cave is startling, said Medhananda . The
cave and the rock in front
have been combined to make something like a two storey house. Another cave had
rectangular holes drilled into it probably to support beams to an upper
storey.
The largest cave, a shrine cave, is about 120’
in length, had walls on three sides and a window. There was a flight of steps leading to a door frame to
enter the cave. It had a makara
thorana. There are more
undiscovered caves but access was very difficult
and I did not climb them, said Medhananda.
Forest
hermitages
Medhananda
visited the many forest hermitages in the Eastern Province. It is
Medhananda who drew attention to Kudimbigala.
This is acknowledged in the media references to Kudimbigala. Medhananda said that there
were Buddhist ruins extending over at
least 600 acres around
Kudumbigala with numerous stupas on the rocks. Kudimbigala
has the only cylindrical stupa known in
Sri Lanka, said Medhananda . inscriptions show that Kudimbigala was established
by king Kavantissa.
The
cave architecture of Kudimbigala was astounding, said Medhananda . The cave technique is amazing. Cave
after cave, placed on top of
each other for 100 acres or so. He
had counted 105 caves. one cave was a Budu madura. One cave was named Maha Sudarsana , another was Yoda lena. Sita
pokunu lena had paintings of 7th
century.
There was a huge
cave project at Samangala forest hermitage, Ampara, , said Medhananda .
This was a high level hermitage. Inscription
indicates that this was started by Saddhatissa. One
cave is 60 feet in height
and can shelter about 500 people. All caves had drip ledges. There were many inscriptions which have not
yet been recorded. No
archaeological explorations have been
done here. An attempt to
turn this into a meditation centre, some years ago, failed, said Medhananda.
There has been a
monastery at present day Namalu chetiya. Namalu chetiya was huge, almost as large as
Ruvanveli. The villagers used to
worship there. The monastery of 150 acres occupied flat ground , rock, hill and forest. There were ponds, flights of steps, heaps of
inscriptions and several stone beds. The monastery ended at Heda oya. This would have been a developed,
scenic, large monastery, said Medhananda . A
monk was living by the stupa in a small
hut when Medhananda went there.
Buddhangala aranya Senasana, Ampara has 200 acres of ruins, on five hills. stone bridges connect one rock to
the other. Caves were partitioned into three by walls. Bricks
with decorations and inscribed are found in plenty. There was a fine
siripatula, circular , 11 feet and well carved.
In 1964 Buddhangala was restarted as a hermitage.
Piyangala
vana Senasuna, Ampara has over 100 meditation caves with and without drip
ledges. Some of the old walls remain. The old badama is there, this is worth examining, said
Medhananda.
Medhananda has also visited Rangiri len
senasuna, Hiriyala, and Seethakanda
aranya senasana, Moneragala. Karambagala senasuna, (Bilivana vihara) Hambantota had caves all over. One
cave could accommodate 400. There was a seat in another cave. At
Nimala vana senasuna there is a rock with a stone carved bed, said
Medhananda .
.Madama gama Kanda Aranya senasanaya in Hurulu
palata, Anuradhapura had a cave with a
roof built above. The stone beds here are unique. They have been carved out of the
stone. There are 7 beds near the pool , two more behind , one above and four
near the cave mouth. There are beds at Ruhuna Namalu also but not in a row like
this. This monastery had a huge cave 150
feet long on a hill which was 300 feet
up. there was a frightening slope on one side of this cave.
Cave shrines.
Medhananda has drawn attention to the
existence of cave shrines. caves
converted to shrine can be seen in Ruhunu and Pihiti rata he said. The most notable of the cave shrines explored by
Medhananda was the Karandahela cave complex, in Hulannuge, Ampara, 633 feet above
sea level. Karandahela has the biggest cave in Asia. .https://roar.media/sinhala/main/features/caves-in-karandahela-sri-lanka/
At Padikemgala Medhananda found many caves
first inhabited by monks, then turned to shrines. There were many shrines in
these caves, the paintings on the walls could
still be seen. One cave had brick
wall with many niches and no windows.
Neelagiri pilima lena had
two important caves at the top, both are shrines. The caves had walls, one wall was of stones. The walls
had been plastered, the plaster can be seen, also the paintings.
Muhudu
Maha viharas
Medhananda drew attention to the Muhudu maha viharas.
Muhudu Maha viharas could be seen in abundance on south, east and northern
coastal areas, said Medhananda. These
shrines were built
to be seen from the sea. Medhananda
particularly focused on the Muhudu Maha viharas
built along the coast of the Eastern province
. Kucceveli Maha vihara was one
of these muhudu viharas, he said. Magul
Maha vihara , Kirinda had rows of caves
with walls and drip ledge. The viharas at Bundala, Gokanna, Gotha pabbata, Jambulkolaptuna Kirinda, Lankapatuna,Okanda, Potuvila,
Sangaman kanda, Sastravela, were in existence
until recently, he said. Stupas were also built at the mouths of the rivers where
they meet the sea, as at Walawe ganga.
Ariyakara
viharas
Ruhuna has had several Ariyakara vihara where
venerated arahats lived and Ariyawansa sutra was preached. This was very popular in Ruhuna, there is evidence to prove
this., said Medhananda . There was Ariyakara Raja maha vihara at Kettama village, in the Eastern Province.
It has steps, siripatul, gal vangediya,
faded inscription, naga carvings on rock as well as carvings of horse and bahirawa.
Ariyawansa sutra was also preached at Mulhitiya Velegoda near
Pulligoda, said Medhananda . this was Pelegama vihara originally. Veheragala,
at Rajagala, had Ariyawansa preached there. Inscription says Kubira bhikkhu
stayed there. This inscription is still there. Bovattegala
Inscription indicates that the Ariyawansa sutra was preached there.
There were other
viharas where the Ariyawansa sutra was preached from a seat set on a hilltop. There
are such open places with a seat at Molhitiya, Velegala, Mutugalla , Panama,
Sastravela,
said Medhananda .
Medhananda thinks
that there was also an Ariyakara building at ‘Punchi Sigiriya” in Digamadulla.
Punchi Sigiriya is not a rock, it is a cave. With a one Sigiriya like painting, seen by Paranavitane, which is
fading away. Medhananda was more interested in a ruined building on a hill close by, reached by a flight of
steps. Medhananda
thinks this was for preaching
Ariyawansa sutra.
Forgotten
viharas
Medhananda has
discovered many forgotten
viharas, specially in the eastern province. In his book, Sangavunu aitihasita
pudabim” ( Dayawansa Jayakody, 2 ed
2014) he has described the following
viharas in detail. Andiya gala Raja Maha Vihara Vilachchiya
korale, Anuradhapura . Bingoda Raja
Maha Vihara Wellassa. Boralukanda vihara ,Nilaveli. Budumuttawa Raja Maha Vihara Nikaveratiya. Gal kandegama Kanda len Vihara, Vavuniya. Illukpitiya kanda len vihara,
Ampara. Katupotha kande lena, Mihintale. Kebellena vihara Hiriyala. Naindanava
vihara. Polpitigama,, Kurunegala. Piyan galle vihara, Eravur. Rangirimada Raja Maha Vihara Hiriyala. Sadun giri Magam pura Raja Maha
Vihara, Kurunegala. Sri Pana Raja Maha
Vihara, Pottuvil. Suduveli Mankada ha gal hira Mankade vihara , Moneragala.
Another of these forgotten vihara is
Kotaveheragala vihara in Yalpota village, Lahugala, the village has just four
families doing chena cultivation.
Kotaveheragala
vihara has a cave
second only to that in Karandahele. It has a carved drip ledge. It is divided into four rooms and the walls are still standing. there is an
inscription on the steps, faded which says the steps were donated by a
monk.
It must have been an image house . there
are lovely
overflowing ponds on the rock . Lots of bricks all over. It is possible to go round the rock to the
caves on the other side, but it is dangerous,
because bears and leopards come there. This
vihara has not been seen by the
Department of Archaeology.
Medhananda has explored
Somawathi vihara at Kombanachchiya, near Kiliveddi. It has ruins no one has
seen before. Malayadikanda vihara has 27
caves and ruined stupa. Niyagunakanda vihara
has caves near it with drip ledge inscription. Site has never been
examined. Both viharas are near
Hingurana sugar factory. In Gal len vihara at Giribawa,
Kurunegala the caves had specific names such as sheeta guhe, two caves were
maha lena. Kappangamuyaye Kadurugoda vihara by Namal oya had stupa, columns, and
moonstone. There were ruins in the
forest around. Ganegama vihara, Ampara
had veddha paintings of crocodiles, elephant and other figures . it had a
simple sandakada pahana, and a
doratupala with punkalasa. there were many Veheragalas in the island,
observed Medhananda . Medhananda has also looked at
Balahudu , Kukuluvagala and Galaba len vihara.
Some forgotten viharas catered to small
populations. Kirivehera Raja Maha Vihara
Lahugala, was in village where a
few families were living off banana plantations.
It was reached by a footpath from
Hulannuge junction.
Medhananda also commented on some of the
objects found in his explorations. Medhananda took special interest in the bricks that lay in abundance in the
sites he explored. He
had inspected the ancient bricks at Diyahinna.
Around Verugal ara near Uppar lagoon there are hillocks
full of old bricks, he said. At Henangala
he found three types of ancient bricks.. At Veheragoda, Ampara , in the ‘Pansal kalla’ section there were
bricks measuring 2’1” and 1’2”. Kudagala had
bricks some 1’4’x8”x 2 ½ and
others 8”x9”x 2 ½ .Buriyakulam kanda ruins would have had very attractive steps judging by the decorative
bricks found there. Vachinikulam ruins, in Mannar district
had bricks
which were 16” x 9x 3 , Punyadi had had ancient bricks of different types. Some had
rounded edges., Daluggala Raja Maha Vihara bricks can be dated to 8 century AD, Medhananda concluded.
Medhananda found two clay puvaru 14” by 11” by 1 ½ at Medagama
kanda Aranya senasanaya. On one puvaru there was garadi veta carved, resembling
the veta at Sanchi. Also an attractive line
of flowers. The carvings have
been done before firing. These
puvaru were probably used for decoration
.
The rock
cut steps at Padi Kemgala ruins are unique. there are
several flights of steps. The first consists of 52 steps which
were 2’6” long and 1’2’ wide. This was followed by several sets of 7 steps
each, with a resting stone between,
ending with a set of rounded steps .the resting stone was 10”
by 5 with three circles in it, and a
lotus design in the center. The last step was decorated with a curled
elephant trunk. I have never been seen such a flight of steps, before exclaimed
Medhananda . There was also an inscription which said how the steps were
made. That inscription was decorated with two lotus buds on stems. Padi Kemgala ruins also had a moonstone carved in the
rock.
Neelagiri
pilima lena was probably a very important aramaya. There is set of steps all the way up the
hill. there seem to be more than 200 steps. It has breaks in it, for people to
stop and rest every 50 feet or so, with
arukku gal. There are moon stones at the breaks. the only other flight of steps
like this is at Hachchikuchi, said Medhananda .
Medhananda Found
a special siripatul gala at Konduvattavana
ruins in Inginiyagala. It was a round siripatula gala, and siripatula is
elevated in the middle of the sculpture.
This is rare. the upper terrace
of the stupa at Panama Raja Maha Vihara
has siripatula on it. I have seen this
only in twow other places, vehera galkanda and dammina, said Medhananda . At
Bollagama Raja Maha Vihara the siripatula is joined to the base of stupa. This is found in very old stupa.
In
early Buddhism, the Buddha was depicted
symbolically by an empty chair.
This was one of the earliest symbols used for the Buddha. These empty chairs
were housed in Asanghara. The Asanagara
found at Pulunkunawa is unique, and not
found anywhere else in the country, said Medhananda . It was owalankara in shape. Veheragoda ruins, Ampara had an
asanaghara. Medhananda
saw a possible asanaghara at Bambaragastalawa too.
Diviyagala vihara in Ampara district has a
beautiful moonstone and umbrella stone
in good preservation as well as a complete chatragala, and three
siripatul. Tampitiya vihara
by Tampita wewa, off Pullumalai junction, Batticaloa district, has a very unique guard stone with 9 snake heads, a person holding a pun kalasa and a
woman bending down and collecting water.
When he was at Ellepola Medhananda heard that Bambaragala kande in Diyawinna had
archaeological remains. He went from Balangoda, along Kattota road, Thanjan tenne, turned left at ancient wewa, through jungle, to Bambaragala
kande, where he found a Punchi
Sigiriya. There were fading frescos and stone seats there. Medhananda
wrote about it to ‘Silumina.’
Medhananda had also found a second Punchi Sigiri” at Kudagala. .One cave
in this complex had valuable paintings on one whole wall. Villagers say they
had seen the drawings. There were large lotuses brown, red, orange.
They were described by Medhananda in
1968 in ‘Davasa’ newspaper. But someone
had whitewashed most of it. They have now disappeared said Medhananda in 2003. ( continued)